Entering Mahabaleshwar On a Rainy Day

From Anand, Gujarat to Mahabaleshwar, Maharashtra – we have certainly ‘achieved’ a milestone in journeying our desire of mapping the planet. A pair of buddies in their mid-thirties just hit their final rely button having zig zagged approximately 770kms on Indian National Highways and Asian highways. Stories of luxury SUV travels are really different then two friends having their time traveling on roads on their ‘Garuda’ – their motorcycle with sceneries changing every few kilometers.

We ‘entered’ Mahabaleshwar with Venna Lake Boating Blub to our right. It was a complete touristy place. With super wise space it catered to many tourists who stopped there to take boating ride in Venna Lake. The Venna River flows further from there to southern direction.

First valley view of Mahabaleshwar

Riding in the lanes further that were freshly wet due to raining season our bodies felt fresh too. It wasn’t raining then but the atmosphere around was super fresh as if it was just washed with mountain waters. Mahi moved the bike to a lane with a board that read Lodwick point & Elephant’s Head Point. So we happen to finally stop at a place that offered our first view of picturesque Mahabaleshwar officially. Both of us actually stood by the fringes to let ourselves envelope in the misty magic gradually flowing in various directions. It was 10AM but felt like cloud kissed early morning. We comfortably sat there on an empty bench beside bhaiyas standing with their horses for horse riding & other related activities.

Sitting there my heart couldn’t resist & I started admiring the charm we were feasting our eyes with. Just then, a bhaiya with his horse standing next to my seat informed me that the place we were sitting was the parking lot, & the point to see is inside in the jungle. Cool! So Mahabaleshwar offers parking with a view! 

By, now our tummy cried, being so terribly patience since so long to munch something. I curiously open the strawberry box waiting to get gobbled soon. The aroma of freshness was appetizing. I & Mahi started having it one after the other till the entire box was empty. They were so juicy. It does offers many health benefits as they are rich in nutrients, including vitamin C, fiber, and antioxidants. But right now they were tickling our taste buds and quirky mood too!

Finding Stay in Mahabaleshwar

While we were relishing our strawberries, we saw these bhaiyas convincing few tourists to take ‘ride’ on their horses that were named as – Handsome, Jack, Sachin! Few were photographing their clients while the horse took jump. I didn’t get the idea of having horse riding activities in that small parking area. Anyways, we surfed for our stay. Network was not much there. Obviously altitude reasons.

So, in search of network, we rode back to the lanes. & one the way back we spotted a stay – Sukoon Palace Resort.  As the name it has, it certainly offered the views which gave sufficing sukoon! Umesh bhai runs this property for past 15 years. Such a fortune! He is a polite guy and we booked two night stay here.

The room was decent in Rs 1500 in May. We luckily got three occupancy room. So it was spacious enough with a separate balcony. Both window & balcony were open to jungle view. We took much needed warm bath. It was lunch time by then. So after getting ready we search for food outlets. We had poori sabji at the bus stand which was just near to our hotel. A father – daughter duo was running it. They freshly fried few puris for us and served it with aloo sabji and fried green chilies sprinkled with salt. It was light yet good meal after long bike ride. We complimented our appetite with a cold glass of lassi there itself.

The Old Mahabaleshwar

Now, we got ready to explore the hill station. We stared to ride for few viewpoints. But the rainy clouds were already playing hide & seek. We had decided darshan of the Mahabaleshwar temple in the evening, since we wanted to have more of site seeing before it got dark. So, as we rode further for Helen’s point, it started drizzling. This point might not be so popular so the guiding boards were absent. Also we couldn’t find any way to reach it.

We had just gotten ready, so I was little skeptical on being drenched this early so we ditched Helen’s point & proponed our darhsan plan and direct our Garuda to another road which took us to old Mahabaleshwar.

Sacred spaces of Mahabaleshwar are primarily located in Old Mahabaleshwar, aka, Shree Kshetra Mahabaleshawar Mandir. There are few temples to worship, out of which four temples have huge significance, as they are thousands of years old. We went directly to shiv temple aka the Mahabaleshwar temple.  

We parked Garuda and started walking towards the temple region. The lanes were clean here. At first we entered an age old temple (we mistook as the main temple). It was Atibaleshwar temple It was built from big black stones. They were telling stories about the ages silently. Only source of light inside the temple was cotton lit up diya. The sanctum was decorated with few flowers. The aura was breathing a smell of old peace. On the wall were statues of some deities. In the middle was shivlinga on the floor. I was 4-5 feet long sivlinga, made of metal. In a four walled close dark temple, the only outlet was a small door to enter the holy space. Even if it was not the main temple of Mahabaleshwar, but left us awestruck with the tranquility it exuded. We prayed and bowed down. We were effortlessly enveloped in the calmness those 10 minutes. I was already feeling eternal!

The Mahabaleshwar Temple

Beside this temple was a small temple. My heart got transported in those old times, so much that I am not able to recall the later one now! We walked further and after 2 minutes of walking we had reached to the main entrance of the Mahabaleshawar temple now. Till that day I was under impression that this temple is one of the Jyotirlinga. And I was amazed to see how easily we can enter the temple unlike Somnath Temple where the security measures are very stringent.

But this temple brings alive the sacred grace of 16^th century when it was built. There are few times when I have admired black with utmost dearness. Sometimes, when I see Krishna in temples with white gleaming eyes, when I roam on the rooftop when the city lights are off due to major power failure, I eye the deep darkness of night and now, this temple, black & beautiful!

On the main gate is for live cctv darshan of shivlinga, devotees have to walk left to the gate and then enter the lines properly fenced with steel boundaries for crown management when needed. We walked straight in side the temple in 30 seconds as there was no one in line that time. But inside, there were around 10-15 devotees patiently standing in line to have darshan of ‘swayambhu shivlinga’.

Few curious eyes like me were awed by the thought of having standing in a temple which is significantly old, was already giving constant goose bumps. Just like the temple we visited 5 minutes before, this big black stones of which temple was made also spoke the tales of time that has passed by. The ceiling was shaped as shree yantra. The pillars inside had minimal yet beautiful carvings of flower etc. We were amazed to see carvings in which we could easily pass our fingers inside out as a circle! Such an incredible example of Indian craftsmanship thousands of years ago.

Now we entered the inner sanctum of the temple premises. There our eyes witnessed the ‘Swayambhu shivlinga’. It was 6 foot long spread out shiv linga on the floor space. Most of it was covered with flower and holy clothes etc. so it wasn’t clearly visible. Neither were we allowed to be there for more than 5 seconds. As we both stood there, I was mesmerized to see a stone which actually looked like a big spread out bead of rudraksha. How the water has carved it into rudraksha with the course of time! To eye such a shivlinga is an experience in itself. A childlike pujari wasstanding right there, asking devotees to keep moving out when they have done darshan. He allowed one couple to do inner parikrama of the shivlinga! Thinking that it was for everyone, as I wanted to take step to that side, just saw that a small steel door was closed. Meant,the pujari allowed them only! Anyways.

So the memory of those 5 seconds has stayed with me as a souvenir. We stepped out and took the U turn. There is a small section, named as bedroom of Lord Shiva. It has small bed. Beautifully decorated. They say that Shiva sleeps here at night , as the bed linen is observed as used. There is a small space in the wall for Lord Ganpati statue also. I also saw idol of one goddess there. But it wasn’t recognizable. Then we moved out and took the prasaad. Two laddoos of ramdana. The trust of mandir distributes it free.

Now we could see the outer frame of mandir which is simple yet fascinating. It is a pyramid shaped tower. This temple is made in Hemadant style of southern Indian. Black stone and lime is used without any cement. It features strong stone walls, simple carvings, and no use of metal. Unlike Atibaleshwar temple Mahabaleshwar temple has electric light arrangements inside.

To mark this temple visit in our memory lane we photographed ourselves in the backyard of the temple that overlooks Sahyadri ranges. I have alsway preyed my Shiva to bless me with power of mind & body so that I get to have darshan of Shivalays located on the difficult space of the planet. I get emotional when the prayers were answered.

The Krishani Temple

From here our, next move was for nearby Krishnai temple. For this we parked garuda in the market area. From there we have to walk for about 2-3 mintues in a beautifully constructed broad pathway to reach the Krishabai or Krishani temple. Heavy jungle plantation on either sides of that way in the rainy weather felt heavenly that day.

This temple & its pristine premises will surely transport anyone & everyone thousand years ago. Each stone it is made of screams history. The aura actually disconnects you from the present, it is so powerful. Alike previous two temples, Krishnai temple is also made with similar fashion.

You may feel anytime little Krishna will appear here with his cows. The temple gives you a feel of how beautiful and strong the architecture of early ages were but the condition of the temple is just not good. A big rock just felt down in front of our eyes, which later on was removed from the nearby premises area by a bhaiya. Moving in the corridors of the temple I simply thought that in today’s age of advance architecture, we can resurrect this temple. We can revive the structure of the mandir keeping its soul untouched. Despite of being an archaeological site of India, watching its stone falling down any time, leaving that part of temple withered is the saddest part of the story. Temples that are age old constructed are real & rare heritage humanity could have. It is and has been powerful centre of highest form of energies. Such power pack sacred places are seriously needed in our society where we are dealing with emotional imbalance. These temples of ancient significance are the powerhouse to bring remedy to such issues of the society.

The temple has two corridors on either sides and in the middle of it is a small kund made of rocks where river Krishna originates from gaumukh (mouth of cow) – it’s a statue made of rock. In front and in the middle is the main part of temple. It has a small door to enter the space.  With the permission of the person sitting inside (I thought he might be deputed here by the mandir trust or archaeological department of India). He lit up a troch and showed us around the inner sanctum of the mandir.

Because of its name I was expecting it to be a Krishna temple but since I saw nandi siting in front, I got confused. As we stepped inside, we saw age old shivling place on a very beautiful damroo- a big black stone sculpted into a damroo with intricate carvings. Imagine, its intricateness remains intact still! He told about the antiquity of the temple, shivlinga. Lingaam is comparatively small in proportion to the base i.e. the Damroo. And it is also place in the side and not the centre. This may be the second shivlinga place after the original shivlingam had either been broken or withered with time, we gussed! Tha bhaiya also told us about the origination of river Krishna from the mouth of Gaumukh.

Alike Atibaleshwar temple, cotton lit diya was the only light source inside the inner sanctum of the temple. The pillar had intricate carvings of flower and musical instruments. Pure souls have walked and meditated in these corridors where our curious souls were walking with a sense of extreme proud. God gave us this privilege to be their descendants. If only, we realise it and restore this falling temple’s ancient glory. Sadly, for now it only has nature’s lap for rescue.

The temple overlooks a river Krishna. This place gives plenty of photography goals. Soaking in the pure vibe of the ancient remains of the temple is recommended. Sit there in its corridors and simply be. Do not force yourself for any medication or something. Just observe the ancient temple architecture and gradually immerse yourself in primeval aura of Bharat.

Drizzling weather and mist added to the experience we had. Had it been sunny, the flavours would have been different. Black stone temple in white mist slipping on its roof and pillars made it a complete dreamy affair. Sun kissed days are brighter but in the places like this one, clouds amplify the experience, making the bygone era come alive.

By this time it started getting darker as it was late evening and the drizzles changed into complete rain. So we completed the day & started for our hotel.

There is Shri Panchaganga Temple also in the same vicinity. Due lack of homework while itinerary designing, we couldn’t do it. This temple is significant as it hold the confluence place of five rivers viz., Krishna, Venna, Koyna, Savithri, and Gayathri. The water from these rivers mixes and comes out from the stone statue of Gaumukh. Do share your experience when you get to experience the taste of that divine water.

So first day was for temple visits and Next day we explored the Sahyadri. Stay tuned for the travel stories.